Braking
Master cylinder & brake fluid
Converts lever effort into hydraulic pressure — and the fluid carries it.
How it works
The master cylinder is the pump that turns the effort of your hand (or foot) into hydraulic pressure. When you pull the lever, a small piston pushes brake fluid down the hose to the caliper; when you release it, a spring returns it and the reservoir tops up the volume. Brake fluid (often DOT 4, sometimes DOT 5.1; the type is marked on the cap) has two drawbacks: it absorbs moisture from the air over time, which lowers its boiling point, and it attacks paint. Old fluid can boil under hard braking: vapour bubbles form and the lever goes spongy or even comes back to the bar. Air in the system after a repair gives the same symptom. The master cylinder's internal seals can also wear: the lever slowly sinks under steady pressure, or fluid weeps out. The seals are then replaced with a kit, or the whole master cylinder is renewed.
Maintenance tips
- Check the reservoir level with the bike upright: it drops slowly as pads wear, but a fast drop means a leak.
- Change brake fluid at the interval in your manual (often every 2 years), using the type on the cap, and never mix DOT 5 (silicone) with DOT 4.
- Protect the paintwork with a rag before opening the reservoir: brake fluid damages it.
- Spongy lever or one that reaches the bar: don't ride; have the system bled and the seals checked.
- Any time the system is opened, a careful bleed is mandatory; if in doubt, leave it to a professional.
Related symptoms
⚠️ The information on this page is provided for educational purposes to help you understand the role and operation of the part. It replaces neither a physical inspection nor the judgment of a certified mechanic. Before any work on a safety-critical component (braking, steering, transmission, suspension), have the part's condition confirmed by a professional.
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